The 1995 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is now 30 years old. It has a fully mature bouquet of leather and loamy red berry fruit, with more Merlot clearly evident (40% of the blend). Touches of wild mint develop with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, and again, the Merlot sways this Pauillac. Chinese five-spice, dried herbs and a dash of white pepper emerge towards the finish, which has a little more delineation than the 2005 tasted alongside. This is drinking perfectly now.

What sumptuous pleasures await those who purchase either the 1996 or 1995 Pichon-Lalande. It is hard to choose a favorite, although the 1995 is a smoother, more immediately sexy and accessible wine. It is an exquisite example of Pichon-Lalande with the Merlot component giving the wine a coffee/chocolatey/cherry component to go along with the Cabernet Sauvignon's and Cabernet Franc's complex blackberry/cassis fruit. The wine possesses an opaque black/ruby/purple color, and sexy, flamboyant aromatics of pain grille, black fruits, and cedar. Exquisite on the palate, this full-bodied, layered, multidimensional wine should prove to be one of the vintage's most extraordinary success stories.