A bright, forthright nose of red cherries, violets, licorice and a touch of earth. Firm, chalky tannins on the palate, with crisp acidity and a medium body. Crunchy aftertaste. Drink or hold.

In a heavy glass bottle, the Barone Ricasoli 2022 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Gaiole CeniPrimo arguably comes from the most unique site, with silty alluvial deposits near a riverbed. Winemaking is the same as the other Gran Selezione releases with 22 months in 500-liter barrel and 30% new oak. I love the depth and complexity of this wine. You get more brawn and muscle too. Dark fruit tones are followed by campfire ash and toasted spice. Mineral tones add freshness and focus to this release of 12,000 bottles. Of the various Gran Selezione wines presented this year, this one feels the most modern or contemporary in personality.

The nose has the savory, almost electric adrenaline of hot tar, petrol, burnt sage and bergamot, while the palate is both sweet and spicy, with pepper, more herbs and a pop of wild cherry. Saliva-inducing acid further lifts an already incredible vibrancy. It isn't easy to continue to impress after centuries of Chianti-making, but the Ricasoli Gran Selezioni are truly dazzling.

A tangy, spicy style, this red is delineated by bracing acidity that drives the tart cherry, cranberry, cherry and flinty mineral flavors. Energetic and racy on the long, detailed aftertaste. Offers finesse and character.