Tobacco, walnuts, grilled plums and bay leaves on the nose of this toasty red. It's medium- to full-bodied with nicely polished tannins and a sleek finish. Drink now or hold.

The 2021 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Casauria Riserva Podere Castorani is dark and earthy on the nose, with flowery undergrowth, cedary spices and dried black cherries. It's soft-textured and elegant, with zesty acidity counterbalancing polished red berry fruits and sour citrus undertones. This flexes its structural muscle on the long, tense finish, as nuances of tangerine fade. I would prefer a little less oak influence, but you can't argue with the balance here.