Blackcurrant, blackberry, pencil-lead, cedar and dark-chocolate aromas. Some vanilla bean, too. It's medium-to full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins. Tight and concentrated.

A good estate to note down. Brothers Ludovic and Julien Meffre are making good wines here outside of the classified rankings that dominate the appellation. It has a touch of hedgerow in it, which in my mind is shorthand for not being over-polished, so you still get a sense of vibrancy but of actually being made by someone, not pulled off a conveyor belt. It's not the most sumptuous 2018 that you're going to find, but it's beautifully enjoyable, full of vigour and displays the ripe fruit of the vintage.

The 2018 du Glana is a deep, sensual wine. Ripe red cherry, sweet spice and floral notes all flesh out in a Saint-Julien that offers tons of near and medium-term appeal. Glana's radiant, immediate personality is so appealing. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot.