In contrast to the 1989, this is singing in the line-up, a beautifully put together wine with black olive tapenade loaded up on a layer of pepper and rosemary and emphasising the saline kick that has run through the entire flight of wines. It perhaps doesn't hang on quite as long as some, but this has confidence and charm, and plenty of time ahead of it.

Sweet tobacco, truffle, white pepper and dried cherry give the 1998 Larcis Ducasse much of its lifted, aromatic personality. Early tertiary notes have begun to develop in the glass that add to the wine's completeness today. A mid-weight, gracious Larcis, the 1998 will drink well for another 10-15 years, perhaps more. Like the 2000, the 1998 presents a decidedly delicate, understated expression of this site.

This has nice stuffing, with red licorice, briar, blackberry pâte de fruit and crushed plum notes laced with hints of plum skin and chalk. The solid, juicy finish has nice length, revealing an elegant, fine-grained structure hanging through to the very end. This could gain a bit more in the cellar.