Dark bramble fruits with dark chocolate and eucalyptus leaf, as well as earthy, slightly leathery and forest-floor tones and a youthful, fruity vein. Full-bodied with dense, velvety tannins and almost chewy acidity that's lively and long, cleansing the palate and pushing the length. The structure defies time, though it's more elegant than powerful. Lesser perception of cabernet sauvignon here. Drink or hold.

The 2005 Vieux Chateau Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. There was a lot of drought in 2005," Alexandre Thienpont recalls, "and it was a season a bit like 1982." This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would expect, laden with predominantly red fruit laced with anise and wilted rose petals. Impressive delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins, fresh and sapid in style, more open than the bottle tasted four years earlier. It veers towards a more savory finish. Subtle, ferrous, almost meaty notes lend complexity and typicite. Persistent on the aftertaste, this is a VCC that is just getting going."

A stunning effort from Alexander Thienpont, the 2005 Vieux Chateau Certan (a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) reveals an inky/blue/purple color along with a rich, sumptuous perfume of black olives, lavender, roasted herbs, licorice, pain grille, and oodles of truffles as well as creme de cassis. In the mouth, hints of chocolate and charcoal also make an appearance along with good acidity, fabulous purity, and a full-bodied, powerful mouthfeel. In keeping with the style of this terroir, the wine is reserved and restrained, but deep.

Sleek and refined, without the obvious tannic spine of the vintage, but loaded with smoldering tobacco, bay leaf and alder notes, melded fully with the core of black currant and blackberry fruit. The structure is defined by length and cut rather than sheer force.